ACCESS: A flight to London or Manchester and then train to Sheffield or if you come from Manchester take a train to Hathersage.

BEST TIME: Autumn, winter and spring. In the summer the temperature is not quite appropriate and besides that there is bothersome vermin, which restrain climbing.

ACCOMODATION: There is approximately a 20 minutes' walk from Hathersage to "NORTH LEES" camp. Price is about 3 GBP a night per person. In Hathersage you can also find some beautiful apartments which are offered by local farms. One of familiar is Bunk house (8 GBP a night per person). There is also a major climbing store where you can buy the guide "Peak bouldering" for 16 GBP.

ABOUT BOULDERS: It is recommendable to use a car because the distances are pretty sizable. There is a bus driving to a place where is the restaurant Fox House, but still you have to take a little less than one hour long walk to get to the Burbage South bouldering area. From the camp mentioned above you have a 20 minutes' stiff walk to the first boulder which belongs to the "Stanage", i.e. "The Buckstone". Gritstone offers a lot of friction, which means you need a lot of skin to visit peak District. In case of raining the rock are rapidly dried by wind.

PROBLEMS SUGGESTED BY LOCAL CLIMBERS

1. BUCKSTONE DYNO font. 7b/+ (B9) Stanage " The Buckston"
This is a classic dyno problem from big holds which are sculptured by human a long time ago. Friction does not matter because the boulder is very exposed to the wind and it dries soon in a case of bad weather. The crux move is to hold the top jug, although it is much more easier to just touch it. For warm-up we recommend a traverse estimated with B5, excellent is also problem B8.

2. GREEN TRAVERSE font. 7a+/b (B8) Stanage "Platation"
Again we have a classic example of a beautiful traverse which begins from the right side of sit start and it associates to the problem "DOPE ON A SLOPE" just after a few movements. Here you can do some moves with a sticked right heel until you associate to the problem mentioned above which are marked by good edges and bad footholds. There is after an evident descent also a crux move. The ideal temperature is much more important than in the last part, in summer time the traverse are coloured by green lichens. The end is on the utmost left.

3. NOT TO BE TAKEN AWAY font. 6c/c+ (B5) Stanage "Plantation"
The majority of local climbers agree that is the most beautiful problem in Peak District. Typical highball problem. The crux moves are concentrated on the first two movments, then it is essentially easier to the top. Otherwise, this problem is a typical example of a highball where courage is the most important thing because the landing is dangerous. Several pads are recommended.

5. DELIVERANCE font. 7b/+ (B9) Stanage "Plantation"
Because of extraordinary long distance between holds in not really overhanging slab the problem is technically very difficult to be estimated. Some people who are lower height talk about B10, meanwhile taller talk about easier grade. It had been statically done by March Le Menestrel. There is a joke about basket-ball player who took a pounce and pushed off from the lower part directly to the good upper hold. Otherwise, the problem begins on the left part, then it converts into slightly traversing to the right and then we have a legendary leap from extraordinary bad footholds directly to the top. For certain, the most appropriate is lower temperature and good spotting, mainly with bouldering pads. The number of movements is approximately 6.

6. BLAIR WITCH font. 7b/+ (B8) Stanage "Plantation
This is a quite typical problem of Gridstone with excellent sloopers. Start is sitdown, the detail is just on the top, although the lower part is not so easy either. The boulder in contrast to other Peak boulsders is lie alone in the forest just below Plantation in it contains about 8 movements.

7. BULLWORKER font. 6c/+ (B5) Stanage "Platation"
Sideholds which in most cases require the maximal possible extent of hands. Stand up start slightly from the right side, striding on the traction and then sympatetic end.

8. BRAD PITT font. 7c+ (B12) Stanage "Plantation"
Recently this was one of the difficult problems in Peak until there was discovered easier combinbation of movements. Stand up start, namely from the obviously visible edge, and then follows sidepull slooper with right hand. After that follows sticking the left heel on the edge, then a movement with left hand to the right hand, intermediate help and dynamic move to the top. Sitdown start has is graded Font 8b+.

9. BEACH BALL font. 7a+/b (B8) Secret Garden
Sit start and excellent sloopers which are earmarked by the enitre problem. Extraordinary lower problem.

10. JERRY'S TRAVERSE font. 7a+/b (B8) Cratcliffe "Tree Boulders"
Quite unusual traverse with start on the extreme right and with end on the top on the extreme left. This is about horizontal movements and the crux move is on small edges. Vertical movement on the left does not represent substantial troubles. Surely, particularity is the enormous lack of footholds, therefore you need to climb the majority of the traverse footless.

11. T-CRACK font. 7a+/b (B8) Cratcliffe "Three boulders"
An excellent problem which begins in the hole and continues on T - shaped crack and on the sloopers. A jump is excellent, lower temperature is desired.

12. PISS font. 7b/+ (B9) "Higgar tour"
Unlimited start from obvious slooper above the roof and then an explosive vertical shifting on the sloopers, easier for shorter climbers. The number of movements is between five and six, the most important is appropriate temperature. Sit start which begins under the roof is called "Shit" and is graded B10.