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a) It is a game in where you have to climb a rock which seems
like an elephant. Three movements with good holds and poor feet
as usually in Fontainebleau.
b) quality grade: 3 starts
c) the crux move is the start in order to reach the first holds
d) physical focus on good holds
a) Everything is permitted, special climbing with pockets and two
very nice edges on the heart because the name is after the specific
form of heart at the crux. Caution, left than 1m70 problem is pretty
hardest.
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) the crux move is mainly on edges,
d) fingery power, strenght
e) one of the most popular problem all aroud the forest in this
grade
a) Very nice jump from a small and vertical edge. The start is
a strnuous supension on two vertical holds. You could need the foot
hook on a very large hold. As usaully, in Fontainebleau everything
is permitted.
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) the crux move is a very far jump.
f) fingery power, coordination
(defineded start)
a) Sit Start at the left part of the problem. It's a combination,
one of the two hardest in the forest, of three meters traverse in
more than 45° wall with hands jam and two no feet movements and
an 8a+ problem, whitch is the normal start of Chaos.
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) the crux move is mainly on resistance in very hot overhang.
g) physical specificly undercling problem
h) second ascent of the complete problem, stand start actually repeted
three times.
a) A very nice warming- up problem who propose a very interssant
variety of different movements. We use this name beacause the problems
look like a sort of mushroom. But it is in fact easy and not dangerous
to taste it.
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) no crux movement, only a combination of the first and far underling
movement and then a physical movement on a two hands reglette
i) precision and technical problem
a) This arete is very powerfull with strange and specific movements
with a very poor left hand to jump on the vertical edge. In fact,
you need a good sensation of all the body because it is impossible
to be only strong. In my opinion, this is a very specific Fontainelbeau's
problem.
b) quality grade: 4 starts
c) the crux move is a strange feeling on a very plat and inexistant
hold with a good foot. .
j) feeling, coordination
a) A very technical and impressive arete. The problem is more
than 6 meters high and you have to be one with the rock to realise
it. If you try to speed, you will be dead. Without the method, it
could be easier to try some of 7c than this 7a+.
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) the crux move is to reach a good hold, very high on the arete
with nothing in hands and poor feet.
k) Balance movement
(defined start)
a) It is the sit start of 7b+ of the normal problem. Interessant
cause with pretty good holds in a very cool overhang. Take care
to this movement and find the best position for crash pads cause
there is a very bad landing. It could be better if you have a good
spotter.
b) quality grade: 3 starts
c) the crux move is with foot hook very strange to fell and a vertcal
poor left hand. If you don't feel your right foot, it is impossible
to find a solution and you have to try again.
l) Foot hook and a little will be exposed for the last movements
a) Splendid problem; for a very long time it was called "impossible
project". When I climbed it for the first time I found out
the reason for that name. It is called so because of the form in
the middle who looks like a brain. In French it signifies that with
what you have in your brain try to imagine solution. A really excellent
combiantion of ten movements which are very different and a very
high mantelshelve is really impressive for the first time. Two solutions
for the two first movements. First solution is to jump on a very
poor edge, and the second and undercling movement is to go to "the
brain". Both solutions are similar".
b) quality grade: 5 starts
c) the crux movement is mainly on edges, rest of the holds are mostly
jumps.
m) fingery power, strenght balance movement on the arete and final
mantelshelve
a) A very recent problem ; when we tried it for the first time,
we imagined it was more than 8b ; but the arete is pretty good and
it is finally one of the best 7c of the forest. Last movement is
incerdible, with good holds and also very impressive
b) quality grade: more than 5 starts if it is possible
c) the crux move is mainly on a right hand edges with a foot hook
to reach a very good but plat hold
n) Physical movements with balance movements on the arete
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