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From Chur on A13/E
43 in direction of San Bernardino is about 38 kilometers. You drive
over Thusis and after 38 kilometers you will see a drive off called
Avers Juf. After about 3 kilometers long drive trough the valley
you park your vehicle through gallaries before or behind the last
gallary. 100 meters higher is another largest parking place. From
the border of the road you can see on the right a wattercourse and
few initial boulders of Magic wood. Descend on the sheer way to
the wire rope on which you have to go on the other side of the wattercourse.
You can also go around, but that will take you about 10 minutes.
In the winter
here is a lot of snow and the temperature is at sub-zero. The best
time for visit is in spring and in autumn. Also in the summer it
is never too hot.
Only 300 meters
higher is the hostelry "Edelweiss" with accommodation
for the night. Here you can get latest information about Magic wood
and buy the latest guiding book for 14,5 CHF. Accommodation for
the night costs 27,5 CHF or about 18,5 EUR a night per person. Camping
wildly is interdicted. Tel.Gasthaus Edelweiss:+41816611827.
There is
an excellent rock which offers crimpy climbing and also a great
problems on sloopers. These problems are dislocated around the entire
forest, landings do not represent a trouble. The best sectors are
"Hauptsector" and "Bachsector", problems that
are worthy to try are U-Boot, Bosne, Dinos don't dyno's, Marihuanacorner,
La Dance…
The movements from a problem to problem can take quite a lot of
time, so you can rapidly be caught by the night. Grades are not
Fontainebleau's. Difficult problems much more faster recieve the
right grade.
This area is frequently
visited by hunters and policemans, so respect the nature and surroundings.
Do not stay in privat area. One of bridges is also privat, so do
not use it. If you intend to try an refined project, first consult
with local climbers who are written in brackets.
Cresciano. You have to drive 1 hour. It is less than 80 kilometers.
Access is following: Averstal- San Bernardino (A13)-Lostallo-San
Vittore-Claro-Cresciano.
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